Nirmal Purja, the celebrated Nepali mountaineer and former UK Special Forces operative who achieved global renown for climbing all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres in 2019, has died after an avalanche struck Pakistan’s Broad Peak.
Avalanche on Broad Peak claims multiple lives
The avalanche hit at around midday on Thursday, sweeping through an expedition that Purja was leading. The group comprised Purja and 10 other climbers, and several members of the team have been confirmed dead by Elite Exped, the company he co-founded.
"Today it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal ‘Nimsdai’ Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak."
In its statement Elite Exped said it had also "received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive," and named two of Purja’s climbing partners and guides, Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta) and Nima Sherpa, as among the deceased. The company offered condolences to families and asked for privacy for those grieving.
International team, difficult conditions
Officials and mountaineering representatives said the expedition included five Nepali climbers as well as climbers from the United States, Pakistan, Oman and China, plus an additional foreign national. Among the victims reported were Nadhira Alharthy, identified as the first Omani to summit Everest, and a US climber, Mallory Geis.
Rescue teams operating in challenging weather reported on Friday that four bodies had been located and that efforts were continuing to retrieve them. Harsh conditions at altitude complicate both search operations and the possibility of further recoveries.
Purja’s legacy and wider impact
Purja rose to international prominence after completing all 14 of the world’s peaks above 8,000 metres in a single year-long push, a feat he completed in 2019. He achieved the sequence in just over six months and later captained the first team to reach the summit of K2 in winter. His background included service as a Gurkha and membership of the UK Special Forces, credentials that bolstered his public profile in Britain and abroad.
"Records are made to be broken... People are only limited by their imagination. If you don't dream, then you won't do it," Purja told the Guardian in 2019.
The deaths will reverberate across the global climbing community. Purja's exploits had inspired many aspiring high‑altitude mountaineers and brought renewed attention to the professional guiding industry in the Himalayas and Karakoram.
- Location: Broad Peak, the world’s 12th-highest mountain.
- Expedition size: Purja plus 10 other climbers.
- Confirmed recoveries: Four bodies located as of Friday; further efforts ongoing.
What happens next
Elite Exped asked for privacy for the families of those lost while international agencies and local authorities continue recovery and support operations. The company’s statement underlined the scale of the human loss without providing a full list of victims or further operational detail.
Beyond the immediate tragedy, the incident raises renewed questions about safety and risk management on high‑altitude expeditions that frequently involve multinational teams and commercial guiding services. As rescue teams work in adverse weather to recover those lost, the climbing community and the families of victims will be seeking answers about the sequence of events that led to the avalanche.
| Fact | Detail |
|---|---|
| Mountain | Broad Peak (world’s 12th-highest) |
| Victims confirmed in report | Nirmal Purja; Pur Bahadur Gurung (Yukta); Nima Sherpa; Nadhira Alharthy; Mallory Geis |
| Bodies recovered (as reported) | Four |
The loss of Nirmal Purja marks a significant moment for mountaineering. His achievements had connected remote Himalayan and Karakoram peaks to audiences across Britain and the world; now that connection will be marked by mourning and reflection as investigations and recovery continue.
